A16: Food + Wine

Lucky San Franciscans will always get to taste A16's famous meatballs, tripe, and short ribs alla Genovese (those ribs! ah...). For those who aren't so fortunate, their A16: Food + Wine cookbook will be a great substitute. Named after the highway that goes across Southern Italy, the book features the lively cuisine of Campania. Notable sommelier Shelley Lindgren and executive chef Nate Appleman share their intense passion of this region's food and wine culture.

There is an extensive section on Campanian wines. You can almost feel Lindgren's feverish quest for these bold varietals. There is a historical background for each type of grape, and she makes her recommended producer. So the next time you make some anchovies, pair it with the Falanghina. Or perhaps match the Bombino Bianco with your burrata.

Check out the recipe below. You, too, will fall in love with this part of Italy.

Roasted Sardines with Bread Crumbs, Green Garlic, and Mint

pair with Vermentino (Sardinia)

serves 6 as an antipasto, or 4 as a main course

Not only are sardines packed with flavor and easy to prepare, they are among the most sustainable species of fish. The addictive, crispy skin of these sardines, and the fresh flavors of green garlic and mint, come together for an inviting antipasto; or pair them with Roasted Potatoes and Cauliflower with Red Onion, Capers, and Chiles (page 238) for a light main course. Prepare this dish in spring, when green garlic starts to appear at farmers' markets. If you can't find green garlic, scallions make a good substitute.

12 (2-ounce) fresh sardines, scaled and gutted
Kosher salt
Extra virgin olive oil
4 stalks green garlic, trimmed and thinly sliced crosswise
1/2 cup coarse fresh bread crumbs, toasted (page 74)
1 tablespoon salt-packed capers, soaked (page 84) and minced
1/3 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves, torn by hand
1/2 lemon

Preheat the oven to 500 F.

If the fresh sardines you buy have not been scaled or gutted, it is easy to do. First, using a sharp paring knife, make a slit along the belly of the fish. Pry the fish open and scrape and rinse out its innards. Next, lay the fish, flesh side down, on a work surface. Grasping the tail and working from tail to head, drag the blunt edge of the knife the length of the fish to remove the scales. Rinse the fish well, pat dry, and repeat with the remaining fish, then clean your work surface before proceeding.

Working with 1 fish at a time, remove the head. Gently pry open the belly to expose its backbone. Place the fish, skin side up, on a work surface and run the palm of your hand along the spine to loosen it, then trim off the back fin. Turn the sardine over. Starting at the head end, pull the backbone toward the tail in a single motion. (Part of the tail may come off with the backbone.) Rinse the sardine under cold running water, checking for any loose bones, and then pat dry. Repeat with the remaining sardines.

Arrange the butterflied sardines on a baking sheet, skin side up. Season both sides with salt, and brush both sides lightly with olive oil. Roast the sardines, skin side up, for about 5 minutes, or until they are cooked through and the skin begins to sizzle.

Meanwhile, in a small saute pan, heat a few tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the green garlic and saute for about 1 minute, or until softened. With a slotted spoon, remove the green garlic and set aside. Over medium-low heat, replenish the saute pan with a few additional tablespoons olive oil and sprinkle in the bread crumbs. Saute for about 2 minutes, or until they crisp up and darken slightly. Remove from the heat, add the green garlic, stir in the capers and mint, and set aside until serving.

Transfer the sardines to a serving platter or divide among individual plates, and squeeze the lemon half over the top. Spoon the green garlic mixture over the sardines, and drizzle with olive oil to finish. Serve immediately.

Recipe reprinted with permission from A16: Food + Wine by Nate Appleman and Shelley Lindgren, copyright © 2008. Published by Ten Speed Press. Photo credit: Ed Anderson © 2008

Purchase at: www.tenspeed.com